26th January fell on Monday, so we were getting a long weekend, and long weekend in sight meant we would be logging on to www.irctc.co.in and the obvious destination – New Jalpaiguri station but this time Prithwi told a different name – the world’s largest mangrove forest “Sundarbans”. January is a perfect time to visit Sundarbans so we four friends Manindra, Prithwi, Arpan and I planned for a Sundarbans trip.
The Sundarbans is a natural region comprising of a National Park, Tiger Reserve, Biosphere Reserve and a UNESCO world heritage site. It covers more than 10,000 sq km of land and water (more than half of it in West Bengal, India, the rest in Bangladesh) in the Ganges delta. The Sundarbans in bengali means, ‘The beautiful forest’. There are some who believe that the word was derived from the name of a common species of mangrove – the sundari tree, Heriteria minor. The Sundarbans national park houses a large number of fauna species like fishing cats, leopard cats, macaques, wild boar, crocodiles, monitor lizards, snakes including python, king cobra, rat snake, Russell’s viper , colorful birds including open bill storks, black-capped kingfishers, black-headed ibis, water hens, coots, pheasant-tailed jacanas, grey-headed fish eagles, white-bellied sea eagles, seagulls, common kingfishers etc. This national forest’s most famous resident is the endangered, glorious but extremely dangerous “The Royal Bengal Tiger” which are also renowned “man-eaters”, due to their relatively high frequency of encounters with local people. The Sundarbans is home to more than 400 tigers. It has series of islands and about half are inhabited and some of the remaining islands have tourist accommodations.
We knew about package tours operated by the WBTDC but Manindra, after his intensive internet analysis, found out “Sunderban Tiger Camp” ( http://www.sunderbantigercamp.com ) , and we booked the offered 2N & 3D tour through their website from 24th January to 26th January @ Rs. 5100 (including tax) per head. Manindra and I, both had long zoom bridge camera and had till then never really got a chance to utilize the zoom features on a wild setting. So we were really excited to do some real wild life photography during this first jungle safari so count-down started.
Day 1: We went to the assigned pick-up point for the trip at 7.45am- in front of Priya Cinema near Deshapriya Park located in South Kolkata, West Bengal, India. We saw around 10-12 other tour members including some foreigners waiting at the pick-up point.We boarded a luxury bus (AC) with other members.
The White Pokhkhiraaj Ghora
Breakfast (2 Sandwich, Boiled Egg, Cake, Laddoo) and mineral water were served during our journey. The bus started around 8am, after around 3 hours journey, we reached a place called Gothkhali (on the river Hogol) from where we boarded a well-decorated Tiger Camp boat. Our much awaited jungle safari or rather water-borne jungle safari had now started through the beautiful blue colored river flanked by the verdant mangroves.
Beautiful Blues
Mangroves are very different from the normal trees that we see as these have developed physiological adaptations to overcome the problems of anoxia, high salinity, intense sunlight and frequent tidal inundation. Mangroves grow only in saline coastal sediment habitats in the tropics and subtropics.
Mangroves
Sundari
We were given a welcome drink as soon as we settled down in the camp boat. Our guide, Mr Das greeted us, and provided us all the information that any visitor to the Sunderbans might want to know.
Guide Mr Das
We also got to know other members of the group. Majority of the group members were from West Bengal but one family was from Mumbai and 3 friends from Australia.We saw many boats(Not comparable with the tourist one) carrying local people as this is the only mode of transport for them.
Local Transport
After 2 hrs boat ride, we reached Waxpol Ghat- the entrance jetty to Sunderban Tiger Camp on Dayapur Island. The resort is located right opposite the Sunderban Tiger Reserve Forest separated just by River Pitchkhali.
First Ghat at Sundarban
Sundarban Tiger Camp
We went to our allocated cottage, and rested for a few minutes after a refreshing bath. We were extremely hungry after the arduous journey and could have devoured on any plain food that would have been offered to us, however what waited for us on lunch buffet filled us with delight – Rice, daal, vegetable curry, Bhetki fish curry, chutney, papad, salad, gulab jamun 🙂 .The quality of the food served throughout the tour was awesome.
Post lunch, we started off for our first sightseeing, Sajnekhali Tiger Reserve Project in the same Tiger Camp boat at around 3PM.
Sajnekhali Tiger Reserve
Inside the Sajnekhali Project they had built a Mangrove Interpretation Centre which is kind of a local museum. The complex also had a Bonbibi Temple and a watchtower. From watch tower we spotted couple of deer, crocodiles in the Crocodile Lake and few birds like goose, wild hen, etc.
Sudden Sighting from the Boat
We met one forest staff on Sajnekhali watch tower who told us of one Big Cat’s presence near the tower that was sighted two nights back ( I think they give these stories to the tourists in order to generate some excitement :-)) . At around 5PM, we set out for our camp and while on our way back, took some sunset snaps from our boat.
A Beautiful Sunset
Camp manager told us that snacks will be served while watching the folk dance by local artists so we went to our room and got ready for the evening program. A troop of local artists were waiting for us and the whole team came out and joined the program. Veg and paneer pakoda were served with hot tea and coffee and we enjoyed the evening a lot.
Evening with Folk Dance
We came back to our cottage after the program and had wonderful ADDA session amongst the four of us. Expectations with regard to food were high after the lunch, so I went to the dining place just to check the menu and once again I was delighted as they had my favorite Crab curry. I hurried back to our cottage to call my friends and they were also excited but a bit concerned as we all were a bit full after the sumptuous lunch and evening snacks !
By 8:30 pm dinner was served – rice, roti, daal, vegetable curry, crab curry, chutney, papad, salad and it was again buffet system, so all four of us unabashedly had lots of crab, I told my friends that “It is good that we all are full otherwise the Tiger Camp kitchen team would have to cut the crab curry from the menu for others” 🙂 We had to sleep early as the next morning’s tour was to start early. We came to know that in the morning, we will be going towards more core area, so there was a chance to sight The Big BOSS , now everything depended on our luck !
Day 2: We woke up at around 5 AM with a wake-up knock and bed tea. Our boat started at 6 am and cruised through creeks lined by dense forest. It was a wonderful foggy morning, words are not enough to describe the lush greenery surrounding the streams, coupled with the amazing wild-life sounds. All our eyes were searching for that glimpse of the yellow striped BIG CAT as we were traveling through the narrow channels. They served English breakfast on the boat and it was awesome experience as we were enjoying the real jungle life with ultra-modern facilities 🙂
Char Murti (Four Friends)
After some time, we reached Dobanke (Two Turns – is the meaning) – the caged canopy walkway inside the forest , this is an interesting concept as we are in a cage being watched by the wild animals in their natural abode. This walk around the forest, if you discount the cage, will definitely give the thrill of being actually being amidst the wild animals, we saw few deer, but the Royal Bengal Tiger still eluded us. We also visited the Spotted Deer Rehabilitation Centre.
We then cruised through Matla Sea Face, the point from where Bay of Bengal can be seen. It was all blue and blue and we saw a ship which was quite far from us.
Bay Of Bengal
We saw local fisherman skilfully throwing open their fishing nets across the vast waters to catch fish, fishing is the main occupations amongst the locals.
Busy with Fishing
While coming back to our camp, we saw crocodiles basking in the sun on the banks of the river, spotted and barking deer and some wonderful migratory birds. Our guide suddenly spotted something and told the boat captain to go in a particular direction, when we reached near the river bank, we saw a big monitor Lizard.
Dangerous Crocodile taking Sunbath
Monitor Lizard
After some real wildlife photography, both Manindra and I were quite happy. We came back through the 5 river junction – to Pitchkhali. After strolling around the campus for some time we went for lunch. They again served an awesome traditional lunch including rice, daal, vegetable curry, desi chicken curry, chutney, papad, salad, rosogolla.
Post lunch, our guide took us to the neighboring village to interact with the local community at a typical Sunderban settlement to understand their local Art, Culture and Way of Life (how man and tiger coexist in such a difficult terrain). In simple words a “Rendezvous with the Rural Bengal”.
Locals busy sowing Rice
After talking to some local people , we understood that all tourists come here to see The Royal Bengal Tiger, but these local people are so much threatened that they don’t even want to hear that NAME !!! We also visited a local Bonbibi Temple and came to know that Bonbibi is a guardian spirit of the forests venerated by both the Hindu and the Muslim residents of the Sundarbans, so that she can SAVE them from Tiger !!! They have a kind of local religion.
Bonbibi Temple
Bonbibi
We didn’t see any tiger but by now we understood that tiger sighting on a small trip like that of ours is almost impossible. One of the villagers showed us a tiger pug mark and we were so shocked that tiger prowls inside the villages, but they were casual, as it is regular, normal occurrence for them.
Pug Mark Of The Boss
Royal bengal tiger is a very good swimmer and can swim upto 18 miles at a go so coming to village is the simplest task for them. The pug mark was seen inside the village, so you can well understand how hazardous the lives of the Sunderban residents are and why although all tourists want to see and capture the Royal Bengal Tiger through their eyes and camera lens but the locals never want an encounter in their lifetime. We met two fishermen – they were organizing their nets to catch fish for the night.They told us that their lives are extremely uncertain, many fishermen go but never come back as saving oneself from tiger attack, that too at night time is a real challenge.They also have to deal with the problem of pirates.”If we don’t pay them they will kill us mercilessly” they added.
Honey collection is another and the most risky profession in the Sundarbans.Honey collectors normally go from island to island in their creaky boats collecting honey, made by some of the largest and most aggressive bees in the world.We met one very experienced honey collector who said that the biggest danger comes from the sly tigers as they are always on the prowl and they can kill us in an instant and then there are venomous snakes inside the forests and also crocodiles who remain hidden in the muddy waters waiting for an unsuspecting prey.
Yummy Yummy !!!
People residing in the Sunderbans villages have a tough life, irrespective of their profession. Not only the fishermen and honey collectors who venture into the forests for their livelihood are in constant fear of their life, even people inside villages are not entirely safe as the tigers are nowadays increasingly entering villages in search of prey.The locals use a common phrase in Sundarban – we live with ‘Danga-e Bagh, Jol-e Kumir’ (Tiger on land, crocodile in water). Yes, they have to. We tour, we explore, we enjoy – they just live and sometimes not!
Jol-e Kumir’ ( Crocodile in water )
Danga-e Bagh ( Tiger on land )
We did some sunset photography while coming from the village.
Village side ghat
A returning boat
After sometime, we came back to our resort and enjoyed the evening snacks watching a documentary on Sundarbans that was projected on a large screen. We all had ADDA in small groups. We rambled around the compound soaking in the quietness of the place occasionally broken by the calling of the varied nocturnal creatures . We had Chinese dinner at 9 pm that included – chicken fry, veg chowmein, chili-chicken, salad. We went to bed early as we had to start early morning for the last cruise tour.
Day 3: We woke up early and on hearing the varied chirping rushed outside our cottage with our cameras to capture some snaps of birds. We saw an owl sitting on a tree and also saw some other wonderful birds.
The Ogling Owl
We got tea at 5am and were ready by 6am. We started our journey at 6:15 AM to visit Sudhanyakhali Watch Tower (all these ‘khali’, affixed with the names of so many places in Sundarbans is derived from ‘khal’- canal, which are the creeks) . The journey was awesome as the boat was passing through rivers and narrow creeks of Pitchkhali-Sarakhkhali-Sudhanokhali- Bonbibi Dharani (narrow creek).
Beautiful Creek
Dangerous Creek
We reached the Sudhanyakhali fenced areas, the roots of these trees are filled with small red crab, this is something that I have never seen before. Sailing through mangroves can be like going on a giant treasure hunt. Hidden within the twisted vines and branches are amazing reptiles, wild looking insects and plenty of crabs and other animals like crocodiles, mongoose , snakes etc which call the mangroves their home.
Mongoose
Lazy Crocodile
We went to the watch tower and spotted some animals like-deer, monkey, birds etc.
Spotted Deers
Cute Ancestor
After spending some time, we went to cruise around the Islands of the Sunderbans Tiger Project Area. We got hot Indian breakfast during cruise but all our eyes were browsing through the jungle. A wild boar appeared to fulfill our desire.
Couple of our fellow members asked guide- Mr. Das about his tiger sighting experience, he told us that Sundarbans is not a place to just move around and expect meeting ‘his highness’ any time. They are supposed to have some characteristics as well as some unpredictable nature. In this huge area they normally move inside the jungle and generally, come out very early in the morning or evening. So a patient waiting coupled with good luck, may result into a lifetime experience of meeting the big cat.
True – very few fortunate tourists among the thousands of Sundarbans visitors get the big chance. We were not one of them. Sundarbans, however blessed us with its green beauty, birds, deer, crocodiles, wild boar, and lots of monkeys who enchanted us with their unique ‘monkey-ness’.
We came back to our camp and had another awesome hot lunch and then started our journey towards home.
Ghore Ferar Samay !!! (Journey towards END)
The boat took us to Gothkhali at around 1 PM and as soon as we came out of the Ghat, we found the same bus was waiting for us. We boarded the bus but almost everyone turned around to take a last look at the wonderful island. All the members were quiet as everyone understood that this is THE END to the wonderful trip.
Sunderban trip is not only about Royal Bengal Tiger sighting, but about exploring the amazing mangrove forests, its unique flora and fauna, sailing in the creeks alongside crocodiles, snakes and knowing about the tough lives led by the local residents. Our primary objective of the trip was to spend a quiet weekend amidst wild nature and we experienced more than what we had expected, tiger watching I won’t say was never on my cards, but yes even before our guide mentioned how elusive this animal can be, I knew about the same and hence would have been only happier had I sighted one. Nevertheless, I and my friends were very happy that we did this tour and came back with such an enriching experience that we are going to remember all our lives.
Ajoy Kumar Maji 